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How to Protect Your Skin When Jack Frost Bites
by the American Academy of Dermatology

As winter approaches, many people make changes in their lives…exchanging running shoes for cross-country skis and packing away short-sleeved shirts and donning turtlenecks and sweaters. However, there’s one thing that millions of Americans do not change with the seasons and it could be why their skin is dry and irritated…it’s their skin care regimen. What works for the skin during the warm, humid months of summer, may be too little or too much during the cold, dry months of winter, leading to itchy, flaky and aggravated skin from head to toe.

Speaking at the American Academy of Dermatology’s (Academy) Derm Update 2004, dermatologist Che´rie M. Ditre, M.D., assistant professor, department of dermatology, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Penn., discussed ways to promote and maintain healthy skin as the temperature drops.

“During the winter, the skin is exposed to dry, indoor heat with less humidity. Add to that the heavy, bulky clothes and the skin begins to generate less of its own natural moisturizers, especially as we age, which can lead to flakiness and itching,” stated Dr. Ditre. “That’s why it’s important to take as much care and precaution with our skin during the winter, even when it’s covered up, as we do in the summer.”

The skin is made up of several layers of cells. The epidermis, the top layer of the skin, along with the oil glands, produce lipids (fatty substances). These lipids help keep the skin from losing moisture and make it soft and supple. But the moisture in the skin constantly evaporates, and washing the skin strips away these lipids, further drying the skin.

However, in humid conditions, the skin can replenish itself by soaking up moisture from the air. When the humidity drops, as it does in many places in the winter, your skin loses another opportunity to moisturize itself. Couple that with the low humidity of indoor heating, as well as hot showers and baths, and the skin is bound to become dry and irritated.

Dr. Ditre recommends the following skin care tips, especially if individuals begin to notice changes in their skin during the winter.

Body Care

During the long winter months, dry skin has a tendency to crack and bleed. This reduces the skin’s ability to protect the body and increases the risk of infection. The best way to keep the skin healthy is to replenish its moisture. Individuals should avoid long, hot baths which can dry the skin and instead take tepid showers. Using a moisturizing body wash during the shower and applying moisturizers to the skin within three minutes of stepping out of the shower can help trap water in the upper layers of the skin and decrease dryness and itching. When choosing a moisturizer, check product labels and look for lotions and creams containing any of the following ingredients: petrolatum; mineral oil; linoleic acid; ceramides; dimethicone; or glycerin.

The relative humidity inside also can affect the skin, especially when it drops below 60 percent. At this point, the skin begins to lose moisture, causing the dryness and itching that irritates so many during the winter months. Adding a humidifier to a bedroom or living room can counteract the dry heat in many homes.

In addition, individuals with dry skin may express concern about the type of soap they are using during the winter. “While it’s true that all soaps have the potential to cause contact dermatitis, especially if you are allergic to certain ingredients in the soap, it is perfectly fine to use the same brand of soap throughout the year,” stated Dr. Ditre. “However, if you find your skin becoming drier in the winter months, look for a milder soap that is fragrance-free or one that contains moisturizing ingredients, like oils and vitamins, which can be beneficial for your skin all year round.”

Face Care

To keep your face from feeling the effects of winter’s drying weather, Dr. Ditre recommends that individuals wash their face with lukewarm, not hot, water and a mild facial cleanser. However, if you have oily skin, don't assume that you need a moisturizer. Wait 20 minutes after washing and if your face feels tight, use a moisturizer only where you feel dry.

If you use prescription treatments for acne or other facial conditions, talk with your dermatologist about switching to more moisturizing versions of your formulation, especially if you use retinoid products. “Retinoids can be used to decrease acne and oiliness, reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and age spots, and help prevent the signs of aging,” said Dr. Ditre. “However, products containing retinoids may be drying and increase the chance of skin flaking and redness, so it’s important to talk with your dermatologist about how to offset the effects of winter.”

Dr. Ditre also recommends caution when using alpha-hydroxy acid products. These products exfoliate the top layer of the skin leaving the new layer of skin unprotected to the elements, including the sun and bitter winds.

One of the most important things to remember during the winter months is to continue wearing sunscreen. Snow can reflect more than 80 percent of the sun’s damaging ultraviolet radiation, so it’s important to always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher, especially on exposed body parts such as the face, hands and tops of the ears. Also, wear a lip balm with an SPF of 15 to help prevent chapped lips. Reapply both sunscreen and lip balm every two hours for maximum benefit.

“The winter months do not have to wreak havoc on your skin,” said Dr. Ditre. “Remember to place a greater emphasis on moisturizing and to visit your dermatologist who can devise a personal skin care regimen that will help combat many of the challenges associated with winter skin.”

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Last modified: 11/26/04